The problem with Berlin is that it’s just too much fun. Not that that’s much of a problem most of the time; it just makes leaving it, even for a short time, very difficult. However, I’m determined to start seeing a little bit more of the country over the next few months, and until the summer, this will probably take the form of some day trips, or weekend breaks.
First on the list was Leipzig and amazingly, I made it there last Sunday, only one day later than originally scheduled. (Blame Friday night for that one.) At 9.15, the bus rolled up at Alexanderplatz, our tickets were checked by the jovial driver, and at 9.30 on the dot, we were off.
Unfortunately, this is where I fail a little as a “travel writer”. I’d love to give you a flowery description of the scenic landscape we passed but I fell asleep and only woke up as we hit the outskirts of Leipzig. Instead I’ll say that there were probably some fields and trees and villages and let you visualise that in all its stunning glory…
Done? OK, moving on. After a 2.5 hour nap, there’s nothing I like more than a good feed so I took a stroll into the city centre in search of food. It was dry, if a little overcast, but I figured if it stayed like that all day, I would be pretty lucky, this being the end of January and all. My second breakfast decision was made as soon as I noticed an option on the chalkboard outside Central Café…
Because, you know, sometimes you just have to…
The café was cute and cosy, and the service friendly and efficient. To my delight, they had Flammkuchen on the menu, so I ordered that, a cup of tea, and a white wine – because I was on holiday.
Though a little on the small side, the Flammkuchen was delicious and everything was going down a treat – until I noticed the couple sitting not far from me. Every time she spoke, he stared so intensely and lovingly at her lips, I thought he was going to eat her. It was slightly off-putting to say the least. Luckily, the drunkest man in the world walked in at that point and I kept myself entertained with the thought that he’d have to pick up his breakfast with his face, as his arms were firmly bound behind his back in the jacket he was struggling to take off. As I was leaving they were playing the song, “Lick my neck, my back, my pussy and my crack…”, which I thought was a little inappropriate for Sunday brunch but hey, this is Germany.
Unfortunately, the Leipziger I’d met in the queue for the loo at a hippie/hipster (who knows?) commune the weekend before had bailed on me, so I was on my own on the mean streets of Leipzig. I managed to take one cheery sunny photo before the sleet/hail/snow/rain that would last the rest of the day kicked in.
Leipzig is yet another of those cities that is dubbed the “mini-insert random city here” – in this case, “mini-Paris”. But don’t judge me – it was Goethe who said it first, back in his student days at Leipzig University. For a relatively small city, Leipzig actually packs quite a punch on the famous dead guy scene – Johann Sebastian Bach was a choirmaster here, Mozart and Mendelssohn both performed here, and Wagner was born here in 1813.
I first passed Nikolaikirche, but there was a service going on at the time and I’m banned from those now so I couldn’t go in.
In the absence of my hippie/hipster buddy, I’d printed out a page from the Frommer’s website which said that one of the best things to do in Leipzig was explore the Art Nouveau arcades that thread the old part of the city. As that sounded warm, I was convinced.
The most impressive of these passageways, by far, is the Mädler Mall, adorned with chandeliers, and home to the famous Auerbachs Keller, the setting for one of the scenes in Goethe’s Faust. Sculptures of some of the characters pique your curiosity about visiting the restaurant downstairs.
A quick look at the price-list, however, confirmed that I would not be eating there. Maybe it was cheaper in Goethe’s day.
I exited into the market square, which was market free on that day, but still very pretty, even in the gloom.
The Old Town Hall is now home to the City History Museum, so I made a mental note to come back and visit a bit later, and carried on. I was not disappointed.
YES! It was just what I’d always wanted! A shop selling eyes – and more! Thankfully, it was Sunday and the shop was closed. Otherwise I fear I would have purchased a load of eyes I really have no use for – and possibly more. Thank you Germany for your sensible Sunday shop closures.
Part two coming soon… (unless the Leipzig Tourist Board stops me)
hahahaha nice t-shirt ❤
I like your plan to get to know a bit more of Germany, I hope Munich is included 😀 maybe during the crazy Oktoberfest!
I still haven't been to Leipzig!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ve just booked Dresden for next weekend! If you have any tips for there, let me know!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Awesomeeee!!! I haven’t been there yet 😦 but I really want to go sometime soon, it looks veery beautiful!! 😀 I hope you enjoy your time there!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It looks so lovely! I see they call it ‘Florence on the Elbe’ on their website – sigh 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes its true!! I can’t wait to read about what you think of the city…and see some photos of course 😀
LikeLiked by 1 person
There’ll be a post (or two) about it next week! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Awesome!!!! I will look forward to reading them 😀
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m still getting over how lovely it was right now 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
hahaha awesome!! I am happy to know that!!! ❤
LikeLiked by 1 person
The first post is up now 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Awesome!! Going to check it…
LikeLiked by 1 person
It looks so lovely! I see they call it ‘Florence on the Elbe’ on their website – sigh 😉
LikeLike
That’s my favorite shirt – Carpe the fucking diem.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I LOVE it 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
There’s a quote from a movie I love: “Carpe the diem! Sieze the….carp!”
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha, I’ll carpe the diem but I won’t seize a carp 😉 1 out of 2 ain’t bad 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
50% Glass is half full!!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Mine is 100% full right now – unemployed Friday – huzzah 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Well then, time to make it 100% empty – what are you waiting for? DRINK UP!
LikeLiked by 1 person
And then it will be nap time 🙂 Win win 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I love Leipzig but you missed two very important historical monuments — the Stasi Museum (creepy creepy) and the Gewandhaus zu Leipzig/Opera/Square between the two. So much of the fall of the DDR happened there, it’s worth a second trip (and this time, stay at the Penta Hotel… it’s great, despite their sexist bathroom signs).
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m intrigued about the signs now! Next time I go, I’ll try to get more in – this was just a short trip! Any tips for Dresden? I’m thinking that will be my next destination in a few weeks!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Here are the signs: https://mylifeinlederhosen.wordpress.com/2013/07/14/everydaysexism-at-the-pentahotel/
And sorry to say, my only experience in Dresden was 10 years ago so no tips, leider 😦
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha ha, circle crotch! Unbelievable! I also don’t enjoy shopping – maybe we’re in the wrong country 😉
LikeLike
There’s some sort of nudist lake near Dresden. I’ve been there and I just couldn’t. I’m far too British, so I wore a yellow bikini instead and tried to blend in.Imagine the looks. The first person that I met nude coming towards me was a very old wrinkly man. My eyes burned. BURNED!
You should check it out!
LikeLiked by 1 person
You want my eyes to burn?! Reckon I’ll be safe enough at this time of year though 😉 I was thinking of toughing it out in a bikini in a sauna here, but I don’t think I’ll get away with it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
i don’t either. German stoicism n’ all that. “Do it properly or don’t do it at all.” They say.
I suffer in this country. Having to look at nude bodies all the time while I hang on discretely to my towel, blanket, bikini, clothes, dignity. Even a “full massage” was an uncomfortable issue. Not so much the back part of me but the front…! People just whip everything off. You don’t even have to go to Dresden, plenty in Berlin. Tiergarten? Nudism a plenty. The lakes in Zelendorf? Happy families merrily swimming nude. On the other hand, German people don’t find Benny Hill or the “Carry On” films in the least interesting.
‘Can’t blame them in the least LOL! 🙂 :9
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha, well I guess when everything is in full view, there’s not much titillation going on! Don’t think I’ll ever forget the Benny Hill theme tune though 😉 Such a ridiculous show!
LikeLike
I like Leipzig. It’s quite “cute” and yes, it’s always the mini…something. Right now, it’s supposed to be the “new Berlin.” I doubt it though although, it’ even cheaper. Shock and awe!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I didn’t find it that cheap actually! But I’ve heard rent is very cheap there. And I had heard the Berlin comparisons… I think it’s got a way to go but it definitely has charm!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sadly, I have been warned from going to the east but I don’t know if I should or should not. What would you recommend?
LikeLike
My flatmates warned me that people might be unfriendly, but they weren’t! It was a really nice day. Why did people tell you not to go?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Well it was because of the current goings-on in the east and some experiences people I know have had in those parts 😦
LikeLike
You’d probably be fine but if you don’t feel comfortable going, then maybe it’s best to leave it for a while.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Leipzig is absolutely fine its Dresden and smaller eastern german cities Id be more worried about. in Leipzig people are nice, its very touristy, so go there but make sure you pick a sunny weather day otherwise youll be miserable
LikeLiked by 1 person
Pretty hard to pick a sunny day these days! 🙂
LikeLike
It looks like a pretty place. I like the look of the Art Nouveau place – as a window shopping destination!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yeah, I’d say the shops there are pretty pricey! And you’ll need to save your money for eyes – and more 😉
LikeLike
Look at you conquer Leipzig! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Well, it’s pretty small 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
I think you are a fine travel writer, maybe not so much on your journey, but you make up for it when you get to your destination 🙂 And white wine for breakfast?! Sign me up!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha ha! Well, that was second breakfast 😉 I’d had a feed before I got the bus as well – which probably induced the sleep!
LikeLiked by 1 person
What, are you a Hobbit??
LikeLike
I’m the right size, but without the hairy toes 😉
LikeLiked by 3 people
lol 😝
LikeLiked by 1 person
Love the shirt! But what does trühstück mean?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Frühstück – breakfast 🙂
LikeLike
Ah, got it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
You’re ahead of me… I still haven’t been to Leipzig!
Germans like to play inappropriate songs. On the radio, at 11 a.m. It’s because they have no idea what the words actually mean.
LikeLiked by 3 people
Ha, there was an 11 or 12-year-old girl sitting there with her parents and I was like “COVER HER EARS!” – but not out loud 🙂
LikeLike
To hell with the city I love the tee shirt.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha ha! Maybe I should have just posted a picture of that and not written anything 🙂
LikeLike
This is the most photos I have ever seen in your posts. What is that bread with onions dish? It looks… too oniony to be appetizing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s a Flammkuchen 🙂 Dough on the bottom, creme fraiche, onions and lardons – yummy 🙂 There are lots of different varieties though! This is the classic one 🙂
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarte_flamb%C3%A9e
And that’s not true! I always take lots of photos when I visit new places – I can’t help it that Germany is more photogenic than LV 🙂 There were a lot of nice pics in your post though! “The Russian does Riga” heh heh – bet you’re sorry you did now 😉
LikeLike
Why am I sorry?
I am down with the dough and the creme fresh and the lardons… it’s the pile of onions that I would be picking off.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I love onions so there was no picking off for me – mushrooms, on the other hand, would have formed a little graveyard at the side of the plate 🙂
Nah, I know you’re not sorry. I was just thinking of how much the Latvians “loved” your post 🙂
LikeLike
Ah, oh yeah. God forbid I say something good about their own country!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Damned if you do, and damned if you don’t! The Englishman in Latvia recently did a really positive interview with one of the online portals there – and got the same treatment!
LikeLike
Love all the musical folk who spent time there! And I am with you on the sleep thing. Sometimes I try to sleep in the car when we are taking a trip and hubby wakes me up and makes me look at the scenery….yes….just like you do to an 11 year old. And I enjoyed your “travel writing” style.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Usually I can’t sleep when I travel so I was really surprised! I just closed my eyes for a few minutes while we were in traffic in Berlin 🙂 And awww, your hubby is so cute 🙂 Even if you probably want to kill him at the time 😉
LikeLike
yes….for sure I want to kill him. Usually it IS beautiful scenery….but stuff I have seen 1000 times. But ok…..yes…the truth is, I never get sick of the same scene over and over…..I go nuts for the sunsets from my balcony every night….so I guess I should be more nice to him next time he does that…..see? your blog is having such a positive impact on my marriage…. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I can add ‘marriage guidance counsellor’ to my list of talents 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m sure this is brilliant writing as always Linda; but I never managed to get past the ”flammkuchen”. I did read that single word about 72 times over though …
One of the unfortunate side effects of my recent abstinence from gluten seems to be a fixation with wheat-related words.
Could you write about pasta, cakes or brot in Part II please?
LikeLiked by 1 person
There will be cake in part two 🙂 Flammkuchen is so good! Sorry 😉
LikeLike
oh another Paris of the north…. Leipzig is beautiful but the weather there always sucks
LikeLiked by 1 person
I might try again in summer 🙂 I checked the forecast a couple of days beforehand and it said cold but clear. So much for the forecast! And why does every city want to be Paris!?
LikeLike
I know right. in russia people have a habit comparing every beautiful landscape to switzerland. as if there are no other beautiful places. the occupied region of abkhazia was advertized to me as “switzerland of the black sea” and Ive also heard of a few “switzerlands” in siberia so yeah. oh if only those people would have as much love for work as they do for imperialism… than one day maybe someone would have referred to his country as “siberia of the south”.
btw what prevents germans from calling Paris “the bigger version of leipzig”?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha ha! Maybe we can get that started along with hoch fünf 🙂 Yeah, Sigulda was the ‘Switzerland of Latvia’ – I haven’t been to Switzerland but I doubt it somehow 😉
LikeLike
Well, you may have missed the view of the countryside from the bus but at least you we nice and awake when you wore that t-shirt at the bar! haha
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha, that was taken in Riga before I left – I wasn’t drinking pints at that hour of the morning. Just wine 😉
LikeLike
You’re an excellent tour guide! I’ve already learned to A) stay away from the Eyes…and More shop, B) hippies/hipsters can be unreliable, and C) Leipzigers are fascinated by lips. Quite valuable information, I’d say.
Does it seem odd to anyone else that bars are open on Sundays but supermarkets are not?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Well, the people have to go somewhere 🙂 And I, for one, am very grateful as if you’ve forgotten to do your shopping, you can always go to a bar and eat!
I think the lip guy was actually Italian 🙂 He was speaking English to the girl but he was definitely not a German!
LikeLike
the eyes and more was probably about glasses and contact lenses but it sounds like a shop for body parts.. creepy
in general germans are pretty good at english but they do have strange titles and translations sometimes
LikeLiked by 1 person
There’s another one coming up in part two – and about your favourite topic 🙂
LikeLike
Well that looks like a lovely place! Much better than the road trips you used to make in THAT OTHER place.
p.s. Tell us more about the hippy hipster dude.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Ha ha, yeah, it was lovely! And that’s only the 14th biggest city in Germany – when I think about the 2nd biggest in Latvia… 😉
Hippy/hipster was a total cutie 🙂 We were at a concert at this commune place that only had one toilet so it was pretty easy to get talking to people! He’s from Leipzig but was in Berlin for the night. I said I was going to Leipzig the following weekend… we exchanged numbers… but unfortunately, he decided to go back to Berlin again – the place is irresistible 😉 We’re on for next time though!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Flammkuchen. Love it. Despite not being a Kuchen at all. Cheeky thing!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It can be cheeky all it wants as long as it gets in my belly 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Don’t forget photos of the hauptbahnhof shopping mall for the next post.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I just looked at that from across the street 😉 A few nice photos coming up though!
LikeLike
You mean you didn’t arrive in Leipzig that way? When I was there, the mall was built two floors into the bahnhof’s basement.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I took the bus! The train was super-expensive! I got return bus tickets for €16. Would have been minimum €31 one-way with the train – not worth it for a day trip!
LikeLike
Hi there! I am new to your blog! Great photos. But more importantly, I had to stop by and say I LOVE YOUR SHIRT!!!! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha ha! Thanks! A friend gave it to me as a present in Riga and it just had to come to Berlin with me 🙂 There’s always a use for a ‘Carpe that fucking diem’ t-shirt 🙂
LikeLike
What!? The shops are closed on Sunday? But isn’t that just for those who pay religion taxes? You who are Godless should not have to suffer such indignities. Ha! It amazes me what history lies in Europe. i bet most of those buildings you pictured were there before there was even a city on north America, let alone a history of hundreds or thousands of years. I was watching a Tv show called Salvage from Wales the other day. They go around to old buildings and such and collect and sell antiquities. They took a trip to Ireland and stopped at one old farm in a rural area. The spoke with the farmer and asked how long his family had been there and he replied that they had settled this land in 1200 AD and had worked the same farm ever since. Dear god, time lines like that don’t even exist over here in N.America.
Pretty amazing stuff Linda. Thanks for the tour – I look forward to part 2.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thank you Paul! It was getting a bit wordy so I decided to make it a two-parter 🙂 Really beautiful historic city though. A quick Google reveals that church was built in about 1165 🙂
And yes, the shopping thing takes a bit of getting used to! Restaurants, bars and smaller shops (called ‘drink markets’!) are open but supermarkets and all other shops are closed. I’ve been left breakfast-less on many a Sunday having forgotten to go to the supermarket on Saturday!
LikeLike
hi.. Leipzig is absolutely fine its Dresden and smaller eastern german cities Id be more worried about. in Leipzig people are nice, its very touristy, so go there but make sure you pick a sunny weather day otherwise youll be miserable
LikeLike